To the Lighthouse

I left Baltimore the same time and from the same marina that Leon and Kim did. I really thought that if one of our boats didn't make it to the Bahamas, it would be theirs. They had bought their boat, hauled it out of the water, and done an extensive refit. They had only very recently put the boat in the water before setting out down the ICW. In my mind, that spelled trouble. I thought it would have been better to have spent more time sailing the boat before setting out on a long cruise.

Things break on a sailboat, no matter how new it is, or how well prepared it is. It's just the nature of the beast. I think it's best to do some sea trials before heading out. Banging about the Chesapeake is a much better place to learn what is going to break, and the weaknesses of a boat, than miles from home on the ICW, or out on the ocean.

But enough of my yammering. They made it to the Bahamas. I didn't. And we all know my story. Leon and Kim have been sending out periodic emails about their status. I got one today, and asked permission to post a couple of their emails.

2/25/08

Greetings everyone,

The sun is setting off to port, a 10knot breeze from the NW drying our hair from an afternoon swim in warm crystal clear turquoise water. There's a few people from other boats having sundowners under the palms on the small white sand beach a couple of hundred yards away. And I'm hoping something bites the chicken fat I put on the hook hanging off the stern.

WE FINALLY MADE IT! Made it to the kind of place we've been dreaming of since we left Gregg Neck Boatyard some 4 months ago. The perpetual winter we thought we were in has turned into a beautiful summer! Per our last note, we did indeed leave Ft Pierce around 10pm on 2/15. We had a relatively pleasant crossing despite the Gulf Stream rolling us around a bit. We mostly motored through the night, but a welcome sunrise found us raising all sail and we arrived on the shallows of the Little Bahama Bank around noon, even almost exactly where we planned! The Bank is about 50 mles of open water, so we had to anchor for the night with no land in sight and an uncomfortable roll. But nothing could dampen our spirits after greetings by pods of dolphin in water the colors of which we had never seen nor imagined.

A couple of days sailing found us off Foxtown, where the anchor holding wasn't great, but there was a cell phone tower! Families were informed of our safe passage thanks to BaTelCo who will of course be getting their $2/minute. The next day we pulled into a slip at the Spanish Cay Marina, where we spent the night after checking in with Customs/Immigration and having a delicious (and expensive) meal prepared for us by Spanish Cay Richard, the Dockhand/Desk Clerk/Bartender/Chef, but mainly Chef. We awoke to a strange situation the next morning, one we had yet to experience the whole trip... we had nowhere to go. Finally, we didn't have to "make southing", "beat the cold", "get to the anchorage before dark", or lastly "check in". All we had to do was raise our Bahamas courtesy flag along with the sails and look for a nice place to put the hook down and cook some din-din.

We did find a very nice place, a little bay between Manjack and Crab Cays. Besides a short jaunt across the Sea of Abaco to Cooperstown, we've been anchored here most of the time. We've been resting up with lots of reading and naps, interspersed with dinghy expeditions up magrove lined creeks, explorations of the coral lined Atlantic beaches, and hunting for sea creatures for the dinner plate. Only a Spanish Mackerel caught so far, but it was gooood; tomorrow we might try to spear a lobster or three.

It looks like we'll be leaving here tomorrow, fresh winds coming in ahead of a strong cold front won't be good for this anchorage, but we may be back. Our only appointment on the calendar is to greet Brenda Beck in a couple weeks at Marsh Harbour. We all anxiously await her arrival when she'll finally get some payback on all those dues she paid in the Cold North a couple months ago! Otherwise, we'll meander our way south, probably to Eleuthera and the Exumas, returning to the States sometime in May or June.

Hopefully, we'll find some more internet access along the way. I'm getting this email out to you as soon as I could, but we were quite a while getting to civilization and a little longer figuring out how to "enable" the computer's wireless network card (damned Bill Gates!). I've got a great wireless signal here, broadcasted from the island to the anchorage by the very friendly and inviting couple (the sign on their dock says "Yes Trespassing") who have settled on it after sailing many a year. We were invited to and accepted a tour of the island via jungle paths and soft sand beaches, complete with a hurricane-hole anchorage up the creek, chicken-coop, equipment sheds, hydroponic vegetables, and beautiful landscaping to boot. All that AND free internet access to all visiting boaters! I think we'll be back.
Until next time...

Kim and Leon


3/23/08

Greetings,

With cool rain tinkling on deck and low clouds scudding overhead, it almost feels like spring here in the Abacos on this Easter morning. We hope this note finds you all thawing out from what we hear was a relatively mild winter overall in the Northeast. Generally, it seems to be getting a slight bit hotter and muggier down here, and we start to think about our return trip north bound towards home.

We've enjoyed our time in the Bahamas... though, compared to snow, ice, frigid winds, slick roads and chopping firewood, how could we not? We will miss the warm breezes, clear water of a dozen shades of blue, white sand beaches and tradewind clouds over the sunset. However, we will indeed be very glad to get back to the "good, old U.S. of A." Although it may have a slight bit to do with missing family and friends, Kim is particulary surprised at how much she misses her home country. She dreams of friendly neighbors... a nice, clean and cheap Walmart... filling the water tanks for free with GOOD water... and showers! Oh, showers!!! Who knew we would miss Walmart, of all things?

And so, it must be time to move on as wanderlust pales our current surroundings and the hills over the horizon turn greener. We hope to leave in the next few weeks bound for Florida, back across the Banks and into the Gulf Stream which will carry us the right way this time. Conditions (seas, wind AND crew) will determine how far north we go, but we have a hankering to get back to St. Augustine for Harry's Bread Pudding (what do you think, Katie?). Then, we'll meander north off or in the coast. We're sure there's a few places along the ICW we'd like to see... this time in summer rather than winter weather.

You should find us in the Chesapeake sometime in May, maybe June. Gypsy will stay there for the summer and maybe winter. Our "cruising kitty" needs some replenishment, so we'll get some work for the summer and start on the incredible list of boat-jobs I've developed. Depending on how the summer goes, we may then stay the winter in PA, helping out with the leaf-collection this fall at the Carlile homestead. Kim is smiling nearly ear-to-ear thinking of holidays at home!

Considering the lack of reliable internet service, the next time you hear from us, we should be in Florida. Wish us a safe journey, and we'll see you all soon...

Leon and Kim



----- Original Message -----
From: Scott
To: Gypsy
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 12:07 PM
Subject: Re:

Thanks Kim and Leon! And happy Easter. I'll look forward to meeting up with you guys on the way north.

Would you mind if I posted an excerpt from your last two email updates on the blog? I'm really jealous that you made it to the Bahamas.


----- Original Message -----
From: Gypsy
To: Scott
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2008 12:34 PM
Subject: Re:

No problem... please include as much as you like. By the way, your boat would be ideal for the Abacos. I don't know how many times I said I'd charter a catamaran if I were visiting here on vacation. You see, there aren't many good anchorages with all around protection. Of the handful there are, several are guarded by shallow (and sometimes hard) bars, which us deep-drafters couldn't get past. The few that are available are thus VERY crowded. With your shallow draft, you could get into many that most couldn't and even in the crowded ones, you could anchor in the shallow perimeters which are usually empty. Otherwise, sailing here is very safe. I think it's safer than the Chesapeake. It is basically an inland sea, with Great Abaco Island on one side and the outlying Cays and reefs on the other. The winds follow a very predictable pattern, and all you have to do is pay attention to when the cold fronts are passing over and bringing in the big blows.

Of course, you do have cross the Gulf Stream to get here, and we were thankful for that heavy, deep keel when things got a little bumpy. But, if you choose the weather right, you can have a pretty easy sail across in less than a day, with conditions much milder than the worst you've seen on the Bay. And so many people go across that finding another boat or two to travel with is no problem.

Just a few bits to chew on until next winter!

Leon